Kurt66

Sorry for the delay in updates but unfortunately we had a tough decision to make. With the current recession and global economic downturn we had to do some long hard thinking and in the end both came to the same regrettable decision... It's too f**kin cold to be working out in the garage during december. Alas by mid January the temperature was picking up and the snow had melted away. Before I go any further I'd like to explain that it wasn't to cold for us in the garage, we were concerned that the low temperatures would play havoc with the paints and sealers going on the car next and afraid that the metalwork underneath might be damp and the underbody shultz going on might trap dampness in to the shell. Thats our story and we're sticking with it. :wink: So back to the work, first things first, heat... and then back to where we left off last time, the underneath of the shell was sanded and ready for a good coat of primer. We have used this primer in the past and have found it good. Its Upol P88 and can either be hand painted or thinned out and sprayed. For under the car we went with a good heavy hand painted coat.... after this it was time for seam sealer. We used two types of sealer for this, I had 3 quarters of a can of Upol sealer left over from another job which was still good to go and also bought another 2 cans of 3m to finish the job off.... in the second picture above you can see the special brush that seam sealer comes with to reproduce factory finish effect. I don't like using that brush so instead you can see in the 1st pic the brush I prefer to use. It's a normal half inch brush with about 1cm cut off the end of the bristles. On the application itself basically you apply the sealer to any panel gap on the underside of the car where water can creep in to where you don't want it.... as well as any brackets on the underside of the car, although water getting in to the car isn't a concern here what does happen is water seeps in between the bracket and the floorpan of the car and stays there slowly but surely rotting the surrounding metalwork.... with the underneath done it was time to move on and do the inside, the boot and the engine bay..... on the whole the seam sealer was fairly straight forward to put on, if a little time consuming, there was however one b**tard of an area to get to, the compartment underneath the front scuttle panel.... I'm pretty sure I got more on me than in there. The next area that needed sealing was along the roof gutters and rear windscreen clip. This will be visible under the final spray job so it needs to be a little neater... so we use this stuff, same principle, it's a seam sealer but instead of brush on it's in a tube and can be squirted a little neater.... it can be put on using a normal silicone gun but with the temperatures still a little low the stuff is fairly stubborn in the tube so we used an air gun to apply it..... next job after that was to rebond the roof. When the shell was dipped all sealer and bonder was disolved so it didn't make much sense to bond the roof before dipping, so we done it now.... With all that done we could move on to Shultzing the underneath of the shell. Before this started we "masked" off the section off the garage the car was in. This was not so much to stop the Shultz getting on everything, it's a reasonably tidy application, but instead to stop the dust from the sanding which was coming next from getting everywhere. The car itself was masked of for shultzing.... and as you may have noticed from some of the earlier pic's all the little threaded nuts and brackets where you don't want the stone gaurd to get were masked up. For the underseal itself we decided to go with the 3m gear thanks to some advice from a member on here RJB6 (thanks Roy). The stuff comes in foil packets and cost 18euro a pack.... The other thing needed was the special gun used to apply the stuff, it cost 60 euro.... the gun is a little on the expensive side compared to other products guns but the one upside, unlike others, is that the sealer doesn't run through this style of gun so you don't have to clean it out after or worry about it clogging up. The air pressure comes out of the gun and siphons the gue up out of the packet and splatters it on to the shell.... Having not used this stuff before I made some "complicated calculations" on how much exactly I would need to do the whole underside and came to the conclusion that 6 packs would be sufficient..... and the result.... yeah, 6 packs covered one third of the underneath, f**kin egit so back to the motorfactors again. 12 packs later.... the finish is sweet, looks more or less identical to the factory stuff....

Not a huge update tonight as the car's been away for most of the time since the last post, however it is back now and it's 101% rust free! But before we get to that I'll start where I finished off last update, there was a few small rust repairs to finish before departure.... the rear tail light panel seems to be a week point on e30's for rust and since mine had all the other common rust points present it came as no surprise that I had the full matching set... drivers side tail light section revealed... magnified for those who frequent to many porn sites... and some more underneath just to complicate things... chop, measure, template, offer up, curse, bin, measure again, offer up... magic wand... arc eye... grinder spark burns... and on to underneath... and then on to the passenger side... and underneath of coarse... and for whats hopefully the final time on this shell, chop... template... and paste... and clean... and underneath... although now we had to remove every grommet and plug from the shell in preparation for dipping... http://www.popstarsplus.com/images/HomerSimpsonPicture.gif After this was done we loaded up the shell on the trailer and headed for the boat, 9 hours later we were at the front doors of SPL in Dudley Birmingham, where we left the shell and returned home. Well I say home, but that wasn't untill after some twat overturned a concrete truck on the A55 and forced us to wait 8 hours in Hollyhead for the next boat. Beautiful place Hollyhead, loads to do. Moving on. 4 weeks later came the call from SPL to say the shell was ready for collection. We rigged up van and trailer and headed off again like two little kiddies off to visit father christmas. Below is the pictures of what we brought home. The first 2 pictures are not of my shell, but a member of another forum's car who has kindly let me use them to show what the car looks like mid process, after stripping but before primer dipping... and then the finished article, one 100% rust free shell and panels... Have to say I'm well happy with the outcome. The dipping process is very good in so far as it reaches every little nook and cranny, no matter what box section or bracket you look in or under it's clean and coated. However there is some small downsides, this is underneath all an industrial process and despite our best efforts to build a jig to keep the shell safe while being moved around while in SPL's care there are some "new" dents in the shell. They are few and small but unfortunately one of them is smack bang in the middle of the new roof skin... frustrating, but thats life I guess. Since the shell's been home I've not had a chance to do much, but first on the list was to give the underneath a very light sanding with 320grit sandpaper to key the surface in preparation fro schultz and painting... that last sentence took 10 seconds to write, the sanding took 2 days, it'll be a while yet before this thing is getting speeding fines. STAY TUNED

Egal wie dicht du bist, GÖTHE war dichter

Hallo alle zusammen, Als erstes, es gibt keine probleme mehr. Das mit dem uploaden war ein problem, mittlerweile sind die bilder auf dem server. Das bearbeiten der Original posts ist auch kein Thema mehr, geht in sehr kurzer zeit. Das hauptproblem war das man nur 10 bilder pro post hochladen konnte und die waren dann am ende des posts. Dann habe ich sie versucht auf verschiedenen wegen die bilder aufs e30-talk server zu laden, klappte nur bei mir, nicht bei euch. Zum Schluss hat der hausmeister die bilder hochgeladen und ich verlinke sie nur noch. Ich weiß das es lust auf mehr macht:D Mein plan ist es jeden abend zu aktualisieren und so die geschichte spannend zu halten. Ich weiß natürlich auch das man das auf einen hoster laden kann. Ich möchte es einfach hier posten. Viel spaß noch beim lesen. Grüße Kurt

Uuuups stimmt. Es war 20:05, hab mir gedacht "noch zehn minuten". Dann wars auf einmal 20:30:saufen: Wobei ich mich um eine stunde versehen habe:freak: Gerne doch. Wo du recht hast....

Nein noch nicht.

Hab ihn mal angeschrieben was die incl versand nach deutschland kosten soll.

next up, further down the arch where the side skirt sits over. When wire brushed up it looked ropey...... So off it came to reveal the source of the problem, the innar skin so off it came too..... inner piece made first...... and then the outer piece....... next up one of the holes on the sill where the side skirt clips go through was looking the worse for ware...... before cutting it out time was taken to make a template of the holes position. The last thing you want to have to do when reassembling a freshly painted car is to have to file or redrill new holes in the nice paintwork. So a few bits of tape as markers and a bit of cardboard with the holes position marked on it...... with the piece cut out it now became a bit awkward to offer up and trim the new piece as there is no access to the inside of the sill. A nail came to the rescue..... and then offer up the template back into position to get the exact position of the hole..... next a few more brackets on the outside of the spare wheel well needed replacing..... after which a few brackets were removed from the engine bay that won't be needed down the line...... and finally a modification which probably won't be to everyone's tastes. When I bought the car it had a nice set of rear speakers sitting on the rear parcel shelf, but, the sound was poor because of no real box to enclose them in the parcel shelf. So...... (lovers of originality look away now!) and thats about it for now, thankfully the end of the rust repair is near, which means it's nearly time for a 500mile round trip to give the shell a bath at the premises of SPL..... http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/for-cars.html . . . STAY TUNED

Been a while since the last update, reason being we've had some engine woe's, a bit hard to understand when your cars just a bare shell, but alas it was not the M3 engine that was the cause for grief. Instead it was the turn of the 325 I bought to get me around while the M was off the road that decided it was time she had some attention too. For a while now I've been the proud owner of an environmentally friendly "biofuel" 325. She run's on both petrol and water, but when she started to use more water than petrol there was no avoiding it any longer. Work had to pause on the M to sort the head gasket on the 325. Thankfully the few gaskets needed for the 325 didn't amount to much and the job was a quick one, however the other half of Xworks motorsport didn't quite fair out quite so lucky when his engine decided to let go at the same time. It took a lot more funds and effort to get this kitten purring again.... with the engine woe's out of the way we were able to return to the BM again and something we've been meaning to get around to for a few years now. All the shells we've worked on in the past we've usually rolled over on to some old tires to gain access to underneath, and while this has worked ok, it's not very elegant and an ability to hold a shell at a different angle while working on it can be very helpful. So, some box, angle, tube, channel and a pair of housed bearings led to the creation of this.... the spit is designed for the weight of a bare shell and it can be rotated with one hand. Both front and back stands are identical, bar the locking mechanism welded to the rear stand to hold the shell at the desired angle. We used an automatic driveplate as it had a circle of holes allready in it and saved us having to make up and dill a plate. the uprights of the spit were made just tall enough to rotate the shell 90 degrees as seen below.... it has worked out very handy and both of us agreed we should have made one years ago, especially when the metal and bearings needed to make it only costed around €140. one slight modification we made to it when up and running was the addition of 2 outriggers front and back. As we found the shell had an irritating habit of rocking ever so slightly back and forward when you were sanding or wire brushing along the axis of the spit. The outriggers cured this. if anyone tuned in decides they're going to build one for themselves in the future I've drawn up a few measurements in the link below that may help.[/color] http://www.xworksmotorsport.com/m3%20build%20%284%29/spit%20measurements%20%282%29.JPG with the spit finished it was back to the shell and where we left off last post. The passenger side rear shock tower. As mentioned earlier the shock tower isn't available as a separate piece, only as a part of the whole wheel arch inner skin. So after a cut and paste this was the end result...... the only thing left to finish in this arch was a small bracket at the top of it, which was fairly well gone..... thankfully with the bracket removed it hadn't done much damage to the arch skin.... the bracket however was kaput.... so make a new bracket..... and repair the arch skin before rewelding the bracket left it looking fine again.... After this it was on to the arch the other side, starting again with the shock tower. This time the actual tower itself was fine, but instead the arch skin right behind it had let go..... 2 choices, either crawl into the boot and cut and repair the skin fromin there, or, cut a piece of the shock tower out of the way to do the repair from the outside..... innar skin repair piece..... welded..... shock tower piece remade and rewelded..... cleaned up and a lick of primer...... After that it was on to the arch itself. Thankfully it wasn't as bad as the far side when cleaned up..... two small sections needed replacing...... then on to the lip itself. Again the outer lip once unrolled was wasted but the innar lip was fine once wire brushed....... so new lip made up and clamped in ready for welding.......

Heute abend um 20:15:-D

Hallo, guckt einfach mal rein. Ich finds genial. http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=291812 Grüße Kurt

and then bent it piece by piece...... which left it looking like this.... the last thing to do was drill a few holes in the lip so it could be plug welded to the inner arch lip.... and then start the long process of weldin it in, bit by bit..... spot by spot, till it's one continuous line of weld..... and when it's finished grind the welds down smooth.... and weld the two lips together and all the little slits.... it's not 100% perfect, up close you can see where metals been added in, nothing a light skim of filler won't hide though, isopon, the life blood of many a bodger. with that done there was just a little piece at the back of the arch which was left.... time to move inside the wheel arch then, on the whole the main metal work looked ok in there, but anywhere there was a bracket or something sticking out had caught the pox, such as this little lad which supports the plastic wheel arch liner.... when viewed from the inside it had actually holed through the panel.... so off with the bracket and cut..... copy and paste.... bracket it's self wasn't to bad and cleaned up grand to go back on again... next up was the little cover that runs over the fuel tank breather pipes in the arch and if the other parts of the shell had caught the pox this bit had contracted the plague. Heres what it should look like..... and here's what's left intact of the old one once removed, the differences are quite subtle at first glance, but those with a keen eye should be able to tell the two apart.... unfortunately while the cover was an easy swap, the bit's the cover rested against and had got infected took a little more effort..... had hoped this next bit would be available from the dealer as a replacement panel..... but after checking with realoem and then the dealer it appears that the shock tower pictured only comes with the whole inner wheel arch liner. So she'll get the cut and paste job to. STAY TUNED

got a bit more done since last post. First up was to sort out the battery box on the passenger side. Thankfully it wasn't as bad as the other side, but it was still far from perfect, that'd be far to easy..... when cleaned up fully it wasn't to big.... but it had also spread to the battery box floor aswell.... so out with the grinder.... and make up the replacement pieces, weld in and grind down neat..... next up was a little bubble just above this, which when paint stripped revealed this..... no idea how that one started? anywho, it wasn't too bad from the inside.... but with the outside wire brushed you could see it had to go.... so, cut out.... make up piece and weld in and clean up..... was shifting along at a nice pace at this stage and could see only one more little piece on this section, lovely, get this finished tonight.... aaah fu*k..... the rust had actually started from the inside wheel arch skin and spread to the outer panel as they run quite close together...... so, all together now.... cut fabricate.... (like that word?, sounds real fancy for beating the shit out of a piece of steel till it roughly resembles the bit you hacked off) fab and weld inner skin (it's now "fab" instead of fabricate, with the amount of bloody rust popin up on this thing i'm going to be typing that word alot)..... not getting to carried away cleaning the welds flush on this one, it's behind the bumper and behind the bumper bracket..... if someone sees it, it should mean i've just run over them, in which case they're unlikely to tell anybody about it. right enough of that micky mouse crap, time to start hackin the arch off. With the paint stripped off you could see how far the rust had spread up.... and although the main face of the arch hadn't holed through with the rust, the lip inside when bent back down from the ""PROFESSIONAL"" arch rolling job, looked to be totally shot to bits..... reckoned that since the outside skin was this bad most probably the inner skin would be shite too and both would probably need cutting back. I then realised with both bits going to be cut away I was going to need a template of some sort to help form the new arch metal in to the same shape. So before cutting anything I bent up and cut a bit of mdf to act as a guide.... with that done it was time to mark up what had to go..... and then chop it out to reveal a pleasant suprise.... the inner skin was untouched by the brown pox, even the lip cleaned up with a slight wire brush, marvelous, see that, if this was an Italian car the bloody axle probably would have fell out on that last cut. These Germans know what their at. anywho, now that you could see what need to be replaced we could get on with making up the replacement piece. Draw up a piece from the bit that was cut off.... leaving 10mm above the piece to tuck in behind the original skin, and 20mm below the piece to roll under for the arch lip.... we picked up this tool a few years ago and it's fairly handy for pieces like this, think it's called a "joggler", probably wrong though, don't blame me if they start laughing at ya when you ask for one down the tool shop..... and when you look at it up close you can see the teeth which bends the metal are shaped to bend it so the new piece runs up behind the original piece..... like so..... next was to cut a few slits in it to allow the 90 degree bend for the lip on the bottom of the arch.... and after studying the other arch you could see that the bend wasn't a sharp 90degree but a little curved, so we made a little dolly piece to bend the metal over....

muss mann nicht unbedingt selber bauen, such dir was passendes aus einem anderen fahrzeug aus. such mal danach, wirst schon fündig

Ist jetzt bloß die Frage, was machen mit den Felgen? Weiß jmd zufällig bis welche ET BMW die Achsen freigegeben hat, oder welche Tuner ein Gutachten fuer haben? Glaub bis ET-22 hat SCC was (was vll ja sogar ausreichen würde). wenn du andere felgen nimmst, kannst du gleich auf 5 loch umbauen. vorteile wären eine unauffällige breitere hinterachse aus dem e36 compact oder nur naben. siehe: http://wp1016621.server-he.de/fotost/f01962/f01962.htm vorne 5 loch adapter als spurverbreiterung, voilà

fenderflares mit der karosse verspachteln??? da gibts doch nach kurzer zeit risse oder brüche wenn ich fenderflares habe soll man die auch sehen:meinung: sonst würde ich breitere radhäuser reinschweißen, was dann auch sehr sauber aussehen sollte.

Welcher Motor darf da vorne sein Werk verrichten???

Jetzt sollte es hoffentlich funktionieren. Mit Unterstützung des Hausmeisters und im dritten Anlauf sollte es klappen. Viel Spaß Grüße Kurt

Hier mal die Seite dazu mit Dyno Video http://forums.fourtitude.com/showthread.php?6112112-Gutted-caged-E30-335-wide-hoosiers-and-770-whp

So: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b279/CaliAgents1688/nakamu2.jpg sollte es nicht aussehen hahahahahahaha:kotz: So: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=29925&d=1276057144 genau so wenig. Die Räder müssen bündig abschließen:klug: Bei dem ist die Frontstoßstange zu kurz an den seiten:-D: http://www.wreckedmagazine.com/gallery/albums/grassroots/100-drifters-of-dec/normal_img_4496.jpg das sieht dann meiner Meinung nach unten zugeschnürt, nach Frauen Korsett aus:freak: Den weißen den du gepostet hast finde ich Sch....lecht, das sieht alles zu rund aus und die räder stehen zu weit innen. Ich weiß das ist kein e30 aber nur um nochmal etwas deutlich zu machen: http://i.imgur.com/sDoMg.jpg Bei dem schließen die fanderflares bündig mit der karosserie ab ohne zu überlappen. http://newman.onyxsyndicate.com/e30gtr/img/allflares0006.jpg bei dem aber überlappt es, was auch ein NO-GO ist meiner Meinung nach. Dieses Bild...... http://www.nj-ratingen.de/images/VLN221005/Ms5d0085.jpg dient nur zur Belustigung Meine favoriten: 1. Wie du schon gepostet hast, finde ich die von Kamotors einer der besten Umsetzungen. Aber nur in schwarz überzeugen die mich. Das passt halt zum 80er/90er jahre style. Nicht zu breit, nicht zu hoch und das wichtigste, die reichen bis zum Schweller. Ein schwert würde natürlich den auftritt ungemein positiv unterstreichen vor allem mit deiner m3 Stoßstange. für mehr bilder such google bilder nach kamotors, die karre hat auch mehrere kleinere evolutionen erlebt. Etwas Ähnliches: 2. Als Rennwagen sieht diese Konstellation auch nicht übel aus, passen nicht alle Kriterien aber das Gesamtbild passt. Amerikanisch Style, so'en grober renner. http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii260/pquattro/HPIM1524.jpg 3. EIN TOURING:sabber: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/s1oww/D790B006-195D-4C35-977E-0339C0A80321-14196-000006E25062211F.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/s1oww/B344C426-5252-49CF-8D0B-BEA9F2B87486-14196-000006E2542C6CE1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/s1oww/F656B6CF-BCF1-47A1-A593-166D91CC984A-3063-00000167D81085AF.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/s1oww/D9CC1DDF-21B9-41C6-AB9F-62A62ECC72F4-6017-000002A93B2DACA1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v662/s1oww/80DDF157-47E4-47F6-8FC3-53FCFDF4629E-6017-000002A946C90402.jpg Der müsste vorne etwas tiefer, sonst seihts auch richtig geil aus. PS: Meine eigentlichen Bilder wurden gelöscht die habe ich aus dem netz kurz rausgesucht. Mein Geschmack kann mann aber wohl nicht löschen:rauchen:

Vergiss es Sowas muss wenn aus Metall her. Solch große GFK Seitenwände werden irgendwann Wieso reißen? einfach auf das vorhandene blech drannieten ganz ehrlich die fenderflares sind echt ne heiße nummer, vorallem bei ringtools. ich habe paar coole bilder ausgesucht und abgespeichert für den fall der fälle:rauchen:

m3 gfk backen drannieten:D